摘要

飲食是維持人類生命的基本物質需要，其中包含著豐富的文化內涵；俗諺則蘊藏著各地常民生活的經驗與智慧，能呈現出各地族群的文化風情。本文針對南臺灣客家人口較密集的高雄市美濃區之俗諺做調查，爬梳其中的飲食諺語，探究美濃俗諺中蘊藏的客家特殊飲食風貌和思維。

研究發現：（一）美濃客家人的食材並不算豐富，動物方面的食材多集中在豬、雞，而在海產、水產方面除鹹魚、少數溪魚、養殖魚外，其實貧乏；然在整體動、植物的食材方面，其實還滿注意「藥食同源」觀念的。（二）節令食品以客家常見的粢粑和圓粄仔為主，其餘節令食品出現的種類較同為六堆的其他客家村庄為少。（三）美濃地區的食用名稱雖多，但運用在俗諺中的語詞卻較集中在「食」、「㘔」二詞，反映美濃常民雖對飲食供給不是很滿意，但亦不致於使用激烈的負面食用名稱。（四）在飲食思維上，美濃客家人其實是深受儒家傳統影響的，除注重吃當季食物、謹慎進食、飲水思源、不鋪張浪費、請客注意禮儀方面外，更有因勞動需求而特別強調「吃飽」的思維。

Diet is a basic material need to sustain human life, and it contains rich cultural connotations. Proverbs, embedded with life experience and wisdom of the general public, provide insight into cultures and customs of different ethnic groups. The aim of the current study is to explore the distinctive dietary style and philosophy of the Hakka people. Proverbs, with a focus on diet-related ones, were collected from the Meinong District, where a high density of Hakka population in southern Taiwan is found, for further analysis.

Findings of the research are described as follows. Firstly, sources of food ingredients for Meinong Hakka are rather limited. Foods consumed from livestock come mostly from pigs and chicken. Seafood and aquatic products are scarce, with the exception of salted fish, a small amount of brook fish, and farm-raised fish. In terms of the use of animals and plants as food sources, the concept of “medicine and food homology” is highly valued. Secondly, while qi-ba （Hakka sticky rice ball ） and ien-ban（rice bun） are common festive foods in Meinong, other festive foods are fewer than those in other Liudui Hakka villages. Thirdly, although nominal words and phrases depicting food-consumption are abundant in Meinong Hakka, particular wordings that frequently occur in the proverbs are “食/eat” and “ 㘔/wolf the food down.” Such choices of words imply that Meinong Hakka deem their dietary supply unsatisfactory to a moderate extent, without using eating nominals that carry strong negative connotations. Lastly, concerning dietary philosophy, Meinong Hakkas are deeply influenced by the Confuscian tradition, such as inclinations to consume seasonal foods, eat prudently, express gratitude to food-giver, repel waste of food and extravagance, and show courtesy to guests. The thinking of “being full （after a meal）” is emphasized due to physical labor demand.

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